Tag Archives: Sultan Nuku

Tidore #3 – Kadato Kie, Tidore Sultanate Palace

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Visiting Tidore, it seems less perfect without a visit to Kadato Kie, Kedaton Sultanate Tidore. Thanks to mbak Anita, finally me and my friends managed to visit and met Sultan Husain Syah, Sultan Tidore XXXVII.

 

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a rare occasion, taking pictures with Sultan Tidore XXXVII, Sultan Hussain Syah

Kadato Kie is located about 24 km from Port Rum. It can be reached by using angkot at a cost of Rp 12,000, or motorcycle taxi at a cost of Rp 25,000 or rental car at a cost of Rp 150,000. The location is very strategic, face to face with the sea and back to Mount Kie Marijang. Its location in the middle of Tidore island provides a view of the entire territory of Tidore from West to East, and North to South. Kadato Kie is also flanked by two fortresses, namely Fort Tahula on the right, as well as the Hernando Torre Fort on the left. Kadato Kie has undergone three repairs since the last one was severely damaged by being burned by the invaders, so that nothing can be a historical proof, except for a crown that was rescued in one of the houses.

 

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my visits and friends at Kadato Kie along with the visit of the Indonesian Architects Association of Halmahera Branch

That afternoon, my arrival and friends at Kadato Kie coincided with the Architects Association of Halmahera. Me and my friends had to wait and queue to meet and discuss casually with the Sultan. We were received by Sultan Hussain Syah in a relaxed atmosphere. The Sultan welcomed us very kindly. He shared his vision to explore and restore the long forgotten culture and tradition of Tidore to improve the lives of his people.

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map of Ternate and Tidore areas during Portuguese colonization

 

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genealogy of Tidore Sultanate

In the past, the Tidore region covered up to Irian Barat (now Papua), Ambon, Solomon and Fanuwatu. However, when Indonesia proclaimed its independence, the Solomon and Fanuwatu areas did not enter the territory of the Republic of Indonesia. Sultan Zainal Abidin Syah (Sultan Tidore at the time) then handed over the territory of Irian Barat to the Republic of Indonesia and Tidore became the capital of the province at that time. And Sultan Zainal Abidin Syah was later appointed as the first Governor of Irian Jaya.

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a fragment of Sultan Tidore’s speech on the history of West Irian that was once part of the Tidore Sultanate, March 2, 1949

Sultan Hussain Syah also told about Sultan Nuku (1780 – 1805), Sultan Tidore XXX who holds Sri Paduka Maha Tuan Sultan Saidul Djehah Muhammad El Mabus Amiruddin Sjah Kaitjil Paparangan Jou Barakati. The figure of Sultan Nuku is what inflames the Tidore revolution to restore the dignity and glory of Tidore from the clutches of VOC-style political policy.

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the crown of the Tidore Sultanate, was first used during the Syaifuddin Sultanate (Sultan Tidore XX – present)

Sultan Nuku also managed to unite Tidore and Ternate as the two were divided by Dutch politics. With “allied” tactics with Britain, Sultan Nuku and his troops managed to drive Dutch troops out of the Tidore region. Despite the excuse of “allying,” Britain has nothing to gain, other than ordinary trade relations. Ingenuity, courage, resilience and alertness of Sultan Nuku make Tidore able to establish good relations with the Portuguese, Spanish, English, and even Dutch.

For 25 years, Sultan Nuku befriended the war to defend Tidore’s territory. In his war strategy, Sultan Nuku diplomated with the Dutch and British, organizing strategies and tactics and plunging into battle using the Kora-Kora boat. All that was done to free the people of Tidore from the grip of the invaders. Currently Sultan Nuku has been recognized as a national hero in the Republic of Indonesia.

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boat Kora-Kora, traditional boat of Tidore Sultanate

Besides Sultan Nuku, Tidore also has a regional hero (but is not yet recognized as a national hero) named Imam Abdullah Kadir Abdussalam, also known as Tuan Guru. Tuan Guru has been given the title of hero in South Africa.

A brief flashback to Tidore’s history, the Tidore Sultanate was founded in 1081 under the leadership of Muhammad Naqil (Kohlano Syahjati) (http://sejarahlengkap.com/indonesia/kerajaan/sejarah-kerajaan-tidore). Kadato Kie was built during the reign of Sultan Tidore XXVIII, Muhammad Tahir Muijuddin (1810 – 1821) in 1812. Kadato Kie’s construction took 50 years. However, it was totally destroyed at the end of the reign of Sultan Syahjuan in 1912 due to Dutch’s politics.

Based on a book written by Prime Minister of Tidore Sultanate (Jojau) M. Amin Faaroek, mentioned that before ascending the throne, Muhammad Tahir was a designer and architect. He began to design Kadato Kie’s form and then worked with local clerics. He also sent envoys to the regions to deliver the news that the Tidore Sultanate would build a Kedaton Sultanate and a sultanate mosque in the capital of Tidore Sultanate, in Soa Sio, which was better and bigger than the previous one. The imperial mosque to be built is the third mosque built after the Sultan Mosque built in 1710 and the mosque in Toloa Gamlamo.

The hard work of Sultan Muhammad Tahir paid off. In a short time there were artisans coming from areas like Raja Ampat, Maba, Patani and Weda to build a Kedaton. The construction of this kedaton was led by the chief artisan of Soa Kipu Bela Toduho, known as Tidore architect, named Lang Kie Iko Sorabi.

The construction of this 50-year-old Kedaton resulted in a building shaped like a male scorpion, in Tidore called Hai Mole. After the death of Sultan Muhammad Tahir in 1821, the construction of Kedaton was continued by Sultan Ahmadul Mansyur Sirajuddin and Sultan Ahmad Syafiuddin.

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Kadato Kie, Tidore Sultanate

In 1912 there was the destruction of Kedaton by Jojau Muhammad Alting (Nau Cenge) with the princes and their families. This destruction occurred because of panic Jojau Muhammad Alting, who heard the news that there was a man named Besi who was ambitious to become Sultan Tidore, replacing Sultan Syahjuan who died in 1905. It is said that Besi has a lot of supporters, ranging from Weda, Patani and Maba. Besi’s supporters centered in Gita is reportedly waiting for the right time to attack Tidore. Jojau Muhammad Alting’s panic increased with the arrival of a Tomalou who hit Sagu in Gita, the Tomalou man said that the mass of Besi supporters is quite a lot, complete with food and weaponry.

The news made Jojau Muhammad Alting then sent some princes and Bobato customs Gimalaha and Fomanyira to Ternate to report it to Konteler Ternate. The Ternate Konteler then sends aid to Tidore, then to the Gita to dispel Besi and its supporters. At the same time, at dawn the day Jojau Muhammad Alting and his extended family had flattened Kadato Kie, having previously evacuated all of Kadato Kie’s property out.

In the past, Ternate and Tidore competed in trade. The competition led to the formation of two trade partnerships, each of whom became its leader:

  1. Uli-Lima (Five Brothers Union) led Ternate, covering Bacan, Seram, Obi, and Ambon. During the reign of Sultan Babullah, Ternate reached a golden point and had territory to the Philippines;
  2. Uli-Siwa (Persekutuan Sembilan Bersaudara) is led by Tidore, covering Halmahera, Jailolo to Papua. And the Kingdom of Tidore is also one of the Islamic Kingdom in Indonesia apart from the Palembang Sultanate founded by Ki Gedeng Suro, the Kingdom of Bima in the eastern region of Sumbawa, and Siak Sri Indrapura founded by Sultan Abdul Jalil Rahmat Syah. At the beginning of the 15th century the religion of Islam entered the Kingdom of Tidore because of the 11th Tidore King Sultan Ciriliyati or often called Sultan Djamaluddin like da’wah of Arabic pedakwah namely Sheikh Mansur, and after that the religion of Islam was made official religion of Tidore Kingdom.

Time went on and we had to say goodbye to Sultan Hussain Syah. One sentence from Sultan Hussain Syah is very imprint on my head “In Tidore there is no buskers or beggars. If there is, it can be ascertained that they are not Tidore people. We still have a sense of shame”.

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fragment of a meeting decision between the VOC and the ruler of Maba, Tidore

 

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fragment of Sultan Tidore’s notice to the Ternate Resident that Banda Island was conquered by Tidore, March 13, 1861

 

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the flag of greatness of the Tidore Sultanate which was brought in during the war

 

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the contract fragment between the VOC and Tidore on the Nutmeg and Cloves Tree, March 29, 1667

Before meeting Sultan Hussain Syah, my friends and I had a chance to see the room located on the floor below Kadato Kie. The large white-painted room with green dominated doors and windows served as a museum for the imperial collection. The collection kept in this room is only a small part, because most of the historical collection of the sultanate has been moved to the imperial museum which is located not far from there. The imperial collections I found were various photographs that tell the long history of Tidore. Several important historical high-value letters, as well as miniature Kora-Kora boats (traditional Tidore boats) that seem to tell how valiant the Tidore war troopers of his time.

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the room contained beneath the living room of the sultanate, previously functioned as a museum

 

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green color dominance seen on the doors and windows

 

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reconstruction of Kedaton Sultanate of Tidore

In Kadato Kie’s living room, a pair of beautiful chairs are the throne of the empire. The very identical green color of Islam seems to dominate the room and the wall behind the throne. Flags and banners of the sultanate flank right and left the throne of the empire.

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the throne of Tidore Sultanate

 

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the banner of the Tidore Sultanate

 

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the banner of the Tidore Sultanate

My visit to Tidore Sultanate that afternoon, and met directly with Sultan Tidore XXXVII, Sultan Hussain Syah was an unforgettable experience. This trip to Tidore is truly a special trip.

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I am in front of the throne of Tidore Sultanate

Year-End Trip #9 – Benteng Kalamata, Saksi Perjuangan Masyarakat Ternate

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Sejarah Ternate yang penuh perjuangan meninggalkan beberapa saksi bisu sejarah berupa bangunan yang dulu dijadikan sebagai tempat pertahanan dan pusat perekonomian para penjajah. Salah satunya adalah Benteng Kalamata.

 

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Benteng Kalamata

 

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sejarah singkat Benteng Kalamata yanga ada di dekat gerbang benteng

Benteng Kalamata merupakan benteng yang dibangun oleh bangsa Portugis (Fransisco Serao) di tahun 1540 yang difungsikan sebagai tempat pertahanan dalam rangka perluasan daerah kekuasaan, serta untuk menghadapi serangan Spanyol dari Rum, Tidore. Pada tahun 1575 Portugis meninggalkan benteng yang selanjutnya dikuasai oleh Spanyol yang menjadikannya pos perdagangan rempah-rempah. Setelah Spanyol meninggalkan benteng, tahun 1609 Benteng Kalamata dipugar oleh Gubernur Jenderal Hindia Belanda saat itu, Pieter Both, dan menjadikan benteng sebagai pertahanan serdadu VOC.

 

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taman yang ada di depan Benteng Kalamata

 

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rumput hijau terpelihara dengan beberapa tanaman cantik yang ada di taman Benteng Kalamata

Entah karena apa, pada tahun 1625 Benteng Kalamata ditinggalkan begitu saja oleh Belanda (Geen Huigen Schapen). Kondisi benteng yang kosong kemudian dimanfaatkan oleh Spanyol dengan mendudukinya kembali hingga tahun 1663. Kembali benteng tersebut kemudian ditinggalkan oleh Spanyol dan diambil alih oleh Belanda. Namun pada tahun 1798 pasukan Kesultanan Tidore di bawah pimpinan Sultan Nuku berhasil merebut benteng tersebut dengan bantuan dari pasukan Inggris.

 

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jalanan setapak di pinggir laut menuju gerbang Benteng Kalamata

 

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gerbang Benteng Kalamata

 

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berdiri di bastion di sisi Gunung Gamalama, akan mendapatkan pemandangan indah dari perairan Maluku yang mengarah ke Pulau Tidore

Pada tahun 1799, benteng tersebut diperbaiki oleh Mayor Lutzow. Namun pada tahun 1810, Belanda kembali berhasil merebut Benteng Kalamata dari pasukan Kesultanan Tidore. Hingga pada tahun 1843, pemerintah kolonial Belanda secara resmi mengumumkan bahwa benteng dikosongkan. Dan setelah tahun 1843, kondisi Benteng Kalamata menjadi terbengkalai dan tidak terawat. Bahkan benteng ini pernah tergenang oleh air laut karena adanya abrasi di sekitar lokasi berdirinya Benteng Kalamata. Di tahun 1994 Pemerintah Republik Indonesia melakukan pemugaran terhadap kondisi benteng ini untuk menjaga keberadaannya. Pemugaran yang memakan waktu cukup lama itu kemudian diresmikan purna pugarnya di tahun 1997. Pemerintah Kota Ternate kemudian melakukan renovasi benteng dan menambahkan halaman serta rumah bagi penjaga benteng.

 

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walaupun bentuknya tidak seberapa besar, tapi Benteng Kalamata ini megah

 

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sumur tua yang terdapat di dalam benteng, yang dulu menjadi sumber air bersih untuk para serdadu di sana

Benteng Kalamata juga dikenal dengan nama Benteng Kayu Merah. Hal tersebut karena benteng ini berlokasi di Kelurahan Kayu Merah, Kota Ternate Selatan. Pada awalnya benteng ini diberi nama Santa Lucia, tapi lebih dikenal dengan nama Benteng Kalamata. Nama Kalamata sendiri berasal dari nama Pangeran Kalamata, yang merupakan adik dari Sultan Ternate, Madarsyah.

 

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ya begini gayanya kalo reramean

 

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Gunung Gamalama, tampak berdiri kokoh hingga menembus awan

Berbicara mengenai bentuk dari Benteng Kalamata, benteng ini berbentuk seperti 4 penjuru mata angin yang memiliki 4 bastion berujung runcing yang masing-masing memiliki lubang bidik. Sebagaimana benteng Portugis pada umumnya, konstruksi Benteng Kalamata termasuk kecil, tebal dindingnya hanya sekitar 60 cm dengan tinggi sekitar 3 meter. Posisinya yang berada di garis pantai yang langsung menghadap ke Pulau Tidore merupakan strategi Portugis untuk dapat terus memantau pergerakan Spanyol yang saat itu menguasai Pulau Tidore. Tujuan dari pembangunan benteng ini adalah untuk mengantisipasi serangan dari Pulau Tidore yang dilancarkan oleh pasukan Spanyol.

 

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bentuk Benteng Kalamata menyerupai 4 penjuru mata angin

 

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bentuknya bisa dikatakan simetris di ke-4 sisi bastion-nya

Saat ini, apabila kita mengunjungi Benteng Kalamata, begitu memasuki kompleks benteng akan terlihat sebuah taman cantik dengan rumput hijau terhampar, serta beberapa pot-pot batu yang diletakkan secara teratur dalam sebuah formasi. Taman yang ada di depan Benteng Kalamata cukup teduh, karena adanya beberapa pohon besar yang sedikit menahan pancaran sinar matahari. Di bagian kiri kompleks benteng terdapat rumah penjaga serta beberapa kendaraan.

 

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taman yang ada di halaman depan Benteng Kalamata

 

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tembok batu setebal 60 cm ini membuat Benteng Kalamata tampak kokoh

Berjalan menyusuri jalanan setapak dari batu, akhirnya tibalah di depan gerbang Benteng Kalamata. Dinding batu hitam, kokoh, menjadi saksi betapa banyak sejarah Perjuangan yang sempat terjadi di benteng ini. Secara umum, kondisi benteng ini masih sangat baik. Dinding, tangga, bahkan sumur tua yang dulu merupakan sumber air bersih bagi serdadu yang menempati benteng ini masih ada. Memasuki benteng, di sebelah kanan terdapat sederetan anak tangga menuju ke sebuah bastion, dan tak jauh dari anak tangga tersebut, terdapat sebuah permukaan miring yang juga menuju ke bastion yang lain. Mungkin permukaan miring dari batu ini dulunya berfungsi sebagai jalur transportasi Meriam menuju lubang bidik. Sederetan anak tangga yang ada di dalam benteng berhadapan dengan anak tangga lainnya di sisi yang berlawanan, begitu juga dengan permukaan miring tadi. Apabila permukaan miring yang ada di sebelah kanan dari gerbang mengarah ke bastion yang langsung berhadapan dengan Gunung Gamalama, maka permukaan miring yang satunya mengarah pada bastion yang berhadapan dengan Pulau Tidore.

 

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pemandangan yang bisa dilihat dari ujung bastion Benteng Kalamata, satu sisi kehidupan masyarakat di tepian perairan Maluku

 

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Benteng Kalamata dilihat dari ferry penyeberangan Tidore – Ternate

Di masing-masing bastion ada beberapa jendela bidik, yang mungkin dulu berfungsi sebagai tempat pengintaian dan tempat untuk meletakkan senjata untuk penyerangan. Berdiri di ujung bastion yang mengarah ke daratan, kita akan menatap Gunung Gamalama yang berdiri kokoh hingga menembus awan. Dan apabila kita berdiri di bastion yang mengarah ke laut, maka kita akan melihat indahnya Pulau Maitara dan Pulau Tidore. Sementara 2 bastion lainnya, masing-masing mengarah ke arah perumahan penduduk.

 

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rongsokan kapal tua di perairan Maluku yang bisa dilihat dari salah satu jendela bidik Benteng Kalamata

 

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pemandangan Pulau Maitara dan Pulau Tidore dilihat dari ujung bastion Benteng Kalamata

Menikmati siang di atas Benteng Kalamata sembari melihat indahnya perairan Maluku dan mengingat cerita sejarah yang pernah terjadi di benteng ini, rasanya adalah kombinasi yang sangat serasi.

 

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rumah penduduk di atas perairan Maluku dilihat dari gerbang Benteng Kalamata

 

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bye bye Kalamata, see you again someday