Still remember, that Kadato Kie, Kedaton Sultanate Tidore flanked by 2 pieces of fort? This time I will tell you about the Fort of Torre, because the Fort of Tahula I have told you before. The fort of Torre lies slightly behind Kadato Kie. Precisely behind the tomb of Kapitalau and the tomb of Sultan Zainal Abidin Syah. About 30 minutes when we start from Rum Port.
The fort of Torre is a Portuguese heritage fortress built on the orders of Sancho de Vasconcelos (source from Documenta Malucensia Book) after obtaining permission from Sultan Gapi Baguna (16th Sultan of Tidore, 1586-1600) on 6 January 1578. This permission was obtained after the Portuguese were expelled from Ternate by Sultan Baabullah Khairun in 1570 for killing Sultan Khairun.
The name of the fort is estimated to be taken from the name of the then Portuguese captain, Hernando de la Torre. Fortress of Torre used to be used by the Portuguese for the defense of their families as rulers, due to the tight competition of monopoly of spice trade, especially Clove in Tidore, between Portuguese, Spanish, Japanese and Dutch.
The Torre fort is located at a fairly high location. There are dozens of steps to climb to reach the fort building. The front of the fort is facing directly to Halmahera Island, while the back faces to Mount Kie Marijang. Until now, the Fort Torre has undergone two stages of restoration, namely:
(1) In 2012, the restoration includes the manufacture of stairs, the reconstruction of part of the wall on the Southwest side, the southeast side and the reconnaissance space;
(2) In 2013, the restoration includes the reconstruction of the advanced wall of the Southeast and Southwest sides, the reconstruction of the northeast side wall, the reconstruction of part of the Northwest side wall and the arrangement of the environment.
The Northwest side wall was reconstructed partly because the structure of the wall was disconnected and no structure was found in the surrounding area after excavation. The restoration was carried out on the basis of a technical study conducted by BPCB Ternate (Balai Peninggalan Purbakala Ternate) stating that the Fort Fortress suffered severe damage and the structure of the castle only left about 30%, so it must be immediately restored to avoid further damage of the fort.
That afternoon when I arrived at the Fort Torre, the atmosphere around it was not so quiet. Some local people are seen in the field in front of the staircase that serves as access to reach the fort. I climbed the cement staircase provided to reach the main building of the castle, with large stones arranged haphazardly on the right and left side of the stairs, and dense trees enough to block the sunlight is still quite hot. If at Fort Tahula we have to climb about 123 steps, in the Fort Torre is fewer in number, only a few dozen steps.
Climbing the stairs, I arrived on a path about 1.2 meters wide, made of cement. To the right and left a gazeebo that can be used to rest while enjoying the sea view and Halmahera Island in the distance. Around the footpath looks a very neat and well-maintained garden, adding to the beauty of the Fort Torre.
Entering the main building of the Fort Torre, on the right side of the entrance there is a reconnaissance space directly facing the sea. This room is taller than the rest of the fort and can be reached by climbing several stone steps, this space is equipped with a reconnaissance window on the front side. On the left side is a stone path that will lead us to the rear of the fort. In the center of the fort there is a garden with a variety of flowers that were currently in bloom, Cambodia, Bougenvill, and many more. Walking the stone walkway to the back side of the fort, I found a semi-circular portion of the fort. It looks like a well with a depth of about 5 meters. This section is empty, in the bottom there is only grass. The more rearward, the building of the Fort Torre is increasingly uphill, following the contours of the hilly land. Mount Kie Marijang appears to stand firmly in the distance, dashing!
That afternoon, the Fort Torre looks very pretty. The afternoon sunshine refracts on the walls and courtyards of the fort. The blue sky and the rows of white clouds add to Tidore’s beautiful earth. The sun is increasingly leaning towards the west finally forced my feet to leave the fort. Leaving the beauty of past history that always amazes me and makes me a book lovers. It is true, the darkest of any history that ever happened, will surely be something that can be remembered.
Mungkin tidak banyak yang mengetahui sejarahnya saat Bendera Merah Putih pertama kali berkibar di langit Kepulauan Maluku, tepatnya di Tidore. Saya pun menemukan kisah itu secara tidak sengaja saat sedang browsing di Internet. Dari informasi yang sangat sedikit itu, saya justru merasa tertarik untuk melihat langsung tempat yang sangat bersejarah bagi Indonesia, khususnya Tidore.
Mobil yang saya tumpangi menyusuri jalanan aspal Kota Tidore menuju Tanjung Mareku sore itu, setelah saya mengunjungi sebuah desa indah di kaki Gunung Kie Marijang, Desa Gurabunga. Kira-kira 50 menit berkendara, akhirnya saya tiba di sebuah jalan yang cukup sepi (atau malah sepi banget ya?) dan menemukan monumen kecil dengan sebuah tiang bendera putih dan Bendera Merah Putih di puncaknya. Bentuknya cukup kecil, hanya sekitar 2 x 2 meter.
Dari pinggir jalan yang saya lewati, letak monumen ini sedikit lebih tinggi, sekitar 1 meter. Ada undakan kecil di sisi kanan dan kirinya. Bagian dasarnya dikeramik bermotif dengan dasar warna merah muda. Tiang bendera yang terbuat dari semen berdiri tegak sekitar 3 meter di atas alas bulat bersusun 2. Sebuah Bendera Merah Putih yang juga terbuat dari semen terlihat di ujung tiang. Di bagian belakang terlihat semacam dinding dari bata merah yang membatasi area monumen dari bukit kecil di belakangnya. Sebuah plakat bertuliskan MONUMEN dan lambang bendera Merah Putih terpasang di depan dinding bata merah itu. Sangat sederhana, namun tak sesederhana kisahnya di masa kemerdekaan dulu.
Sehari setelah peringatan kemerdekaan Negara Kesatuan Republik Indonesia yang pertama, yaitu tanggal 18 Agustus 1946, akhirnya Sang Saka Merah Putih bisa berkibar di Tidore. Informasi kemerdekaan Republik Indonesia memerlukan waktu 1 tahun untuk sampai ke bumi Kie Raha karena keterbatasan dan sulitnya informasi pada masa itu. Inisiatif pemuda-pemuda di sana untuk mengibarkan Bendera Merah Putih di langit Indonesia tercinta ini akhirnya terwujud. Hari itu, Minggu, 18 Agustus 1946, waktu baru menunjukkan pukul 4 subuh ketika perlahan-lahan Bendera Merah Putih mulai berkibar di sebatang tiang sederhana yang terbuat dari bambu. Di bawah tiang bambu tersebut tertulis sebaris kalimat yang berbunyi “Barang siapa yang berani menurunkan bendera ini, maka nyawa diganti nyawa”. Pengibaran Bendera Merah Putih itu sama artinya dengan memproklamasikan bahwa Tidore dan Kepulauan Maluku menjadi bagian dari Negara Kesatuan Republik Indonesia.
Bendera Merah Putih yang dikibarkan saat itu pun sangat istimewa. Apabila di Jawa kita mengenal ibu Fatmawati yang menjahit bendera untuk dikibarkan saat Proklamasi Kemerdekaan Republik Indonesia, 17 Agustus 1945, maka di Tidore ada ibu Amina Sabtu (dikenal dengan nama Nenek Na atau Ibu Bandera) yang dikenal juga sebagai Fatmawati-nya Tidore atau Fatmawati dari Indonesia Timur. Nenek Na inilah yang berjasa menjahit Bendera Merah Putih yang dikibarkan di Tanjung Mareku pada tanggal 18 Agustus 1946.
Inisiatif menjahit Bendera Merah Putih itu dilakukan oleh Nenek Na setelah beliau pulang dari Ternate dan mendengar berita mengenai Kemerdekaan Republik Indonesia serta mengetahui bahwa benderanya berwarna merah dan putih. “Orang di Maluku Utara mengetahui bahwa Indonesia telah merdeka pada 17 Agustus 1945, baru pada 1946, karena saat itu di Maluku Utara sarana informasi sangat sulit untuk mengetahui perkembangan yang terjadi di Jakarta”, tutur Nenek Na. Setibanya di Tidore, Nenek Na kemudian membuat bendera tersebut. Namun karena keterbatasan kain dan benang, akhirnya Nenek Na membuat bendera Merah Putih dengan menggunakan 2 helai kain, sehelai kain merah dan sehelai kain putih penutup peti yang digunakan di dalam ritual Salai Jin. Kedua helai kain itu kemudian dijahit menggunakan serat daun Nanas.
Awalnya, rencana pengibaran Bendera Merah Putih akan dilakukan di Jembatan Residen, Ternate. Namun ketatnya penjagaan tentara Belanda di sana, membuat rombongan pemuda dari Indonesia Timur ini mengurungkan niat untuk melakukan pengibaran bendera di lokasi tersebut. Adalah Abdullah Kadir (sepupu Nenek Na) akhirnya mencari lokasi pengganti untuk mengibarkan Bendera Merah Putih tersebut. Kemudian dipilihlah Tanjung Mareku sebagai tempat untuk mengibarkan bendera merah Putih yang pertama kalinya di Tidore. Saat peristiwa heroik itu terjadi, usia Nenek Na baru 19 tahun. Abdullah Kadir dan pemuda-pemuda kemudian mengibarkan Bendera Merah Putih di sana.
Berita pengibaran Bendera Merah Putih di Tanjung Mareku akhirnya sampai ke telinga tentara Belanda. Sepasukan tentara Belanda mendatangi lokasi pengibaran bendera, namun tidak ada yang berani menurunkan Bendera Merah Putih yang berkibar. Belanda akhirnya mencari dan menangkap pemuda-pemuda yang dicurigai sebagai penggerak dan inisiator peristiwa tersebut, termasuk Abdullah Kadir dan Nenek Na.
Setelah pengibaran Bendera Merah Putih tersebut, Tidore dan Kepulauan Maluku secara resmi menyatakan bergabung dengan Negara Kesatuan Republik Indonesia. Hal ini sekaligus mematahkan argumen Belanda dan Jepang yang hanya mengakui secara de facto kemerdekaan Republik Indonesia hanya meliputi Pulau Jawa, Sumatera dan Kalimantan.
Bergabungnya Tidore dan Kepulauan Maluku ke dalam Negara Kesatuan Republik Indonesia juga tidak terlepas dari usaha Sultan Tidore saat itu, Sultan Zainal Abidin Syah yang mendukung Indonesia Timur bergabung dengan NKRI. Saat konferensi Malino pada tahun 1946, Sultan Zainal Abidin Syah diberikan tiga opsi, (1) bersama Irian mendirikan negara sendiri, (2) bergabung dengan Negara Serikat Indonesia Timur, dan (3) bergabung dengan NKRI. Sultan Zainal Abidin Syah memilih untuk bergabung dengan NKRI.
Untuk memperingati peristiwa yang sangat bersejarah tersebut, pada tahun 2009 dibuatlah monumen seperti yang bisa dilihat saat ini di lokasi pengibaran Bendera Merah Putih pertama kalinya di Tidore dan kepulauan Maluku.
Saat ini Nenek Na masih tinggal di rumahnya yang dulu pernah menjadi tempat beliau menjahit Bendera Merah Putih yang pertama kali dikibarkan di Tidore, yaitu di RT 08/RW 04 Kelurahan Mareku, Kecamatan Tidore Utara, Kota Tidore Kepulauan, Maluku Utara. Sedangkan Abdullah Kadir telah meninggal di tahun 2009.
Tahula Fort is located at Sultan Syaifuddin Street, Soa Sio Village, Tidore Subdistrict, Tidore Kepulauan Town. Its location is on a fairly steep hill in the coastal area. Construction of this fortress staircase shown by the number of stairs in the area of the fort. There are 2 pieces of triangular bastion and 1 round bastion.
Based on the archives of Spain, circa 1607, one year after Spain conquered Ternate, Juan de Esquivel (the first Spanish Governor in Maluku, May 1606 – March 1609) ordered to build a fortress in Tidore, but this development was not accomplished due to lack of manpower. The construction of Fort Tahula, also known as Benteng Tohula or Kota Hula, was only started in 1610 by Cristobal de Azcqueta Menchacha (1610 – 1612), the Spanish Governor at that time.
However, this development work is also not yet complete. The construction of Fort Tahula was intensified in 1613 and completed in 1615 under the leadership of the Spanish Governor Don Jeronimo de Silva (1612 – 1617), and the fortress was named Santiago de los Caballeros de Tidore or Sanctiago Caualleros de los de la de Ysla Tidore.
The fort was inhabited by 50 Spanish soldiers equipped with artillery to protect their flagged ships. Spain used this fortress until 1662. After Spain’s departure in 1707, the Dutch – who were in power at the time – asked Sultan Tidore to destroy the fortress of Tahula. However, before the fort was completely destroyed, Sultan Tidore Hamzah Fahroedin (1650-1700) requested that this fort be preserved as the residence of the sultanate.
The location of Fort Tahula is very strategic, right on the edge of the beach and on the cliff, giving access to a wider view of the city of Tidore. We have to pass about 123 steps to reach the fort. On the right and left side of the stairs that passed, looks green plants are neatly arranged. Like the historic buildings in general, the condition of Fort Tahula is also not intact. Parts of it have been damaged and collapsed.
Up the stairs that became the only access to the building of the fort, it was quite tiring. But the scenery gained after arriving at the top of the fort was very beautiful. From the top of the fort, there will be views of Tidore City, Kadato Kie, Tidore Sultan Mosque, Tanjung Soa Sio, Soa Sio main road and Halmahera Island in the distance. Entrance access to the fort is located right at the intersection of Soa Sio main street. In front of this fort stood firmly, a monument of Cloves.
I arrived at Fort Tahula after a visit to Kedaton Sultanate of Tidore, Kadato Kie. In the afternoon, the sun in Soa Sio is still quite hot. Slowly I climbed one by one the steps that will lead to the main building of Fort Tahula is high enough located on the hill. Arriving at the first courtyard, my eyes were treated to a pretty garden scenery, filled with colorful flowers and green trees. Continuing my way up the steps that would take me to the second court of Tahula Fortress, the trees on either side of the stairs were pretty dense and blocked the sunlight of the afternoon. In the second courtyard, I found a rung of iron which is quite steep and very narrow to reach the top of Fort Tahula. And from the top of Fort Tahula, a very beautiful landscape greeted me, view of Tidore City from above. Houses of residents interspersed with trees that are quite shady, collaborating with the blue sea is very broad. What would you say? I just want to say “This is Indonesia, my beloved country!”
In the vicinity of Fort Tahula are still found many coconut and banana trees. The view to the open sea was clearly plastered. From the top of the fort looks a footpath made of stone that becomes a foot path to surround the fort area. Some gazeebos are seen in several locations, provided for resting visitors. Deep in the back of the fort, Mount Kie Marijang stands dashing, as if guarding the whole island of Tidore.
Enjoying the afternoon at the top of Fort Tahula is very pleasant. The heat of the sun is directly proportional to the wind. I imagining to enjoying the moment the sun rises from above FortressTahula, ah … I will miss that place very much.
Visiting Tidore, it seems less perfect without a visit to Kadato Kie, Kedaton Sultanate Tidore. Thanks to mbak Anita, finally me and my friends managed to visit and met Sultan Husain Syah, Sultan Tidore XXXVII.
Kadato Kie is located about 24 km from Port Rum. It can be reached by using angkot at a cost of Rp 12,000, or motorcycle taxi at a cost of Rp 25,000 or rental car at a cost of Rp 150,000. The location is very strategic, face to face with the sea and back to Mount Kie Marijang. Its location in the middle of Tidore island provides a view of the entire territory of Tidore from West to East, and North to South. Kadato Kie is also flanked by two fortresses, namely Fort Tahula on the right, as well as the Hernando Torre Fort on the left. Kadato Kie has undergone three repairs since the last one was severely damaged by being burned by the invaders, so that nothing can be a historical proof, except for a crown that was rescued in one of the houses.
That afternoon, my arrival and friends at Kadato Kie coincided with the Architects Association of Halmahera. Me and my friends had to wait and queue to meet and discuss casually with the Sultan. We were received by Sultan Hussain Syah in a relaxed atmosphere. The Sultan welcomed us very kindly. He shared his vision to explore and restore the long forgotten culture and tradition of Tidore to improve the lives of his people.
In the past, the Tidore region covered up to Irian Barat (now Papua), Ambon, Solomon and Fanuwatu. However, when Indonesia proclaimed its independence, the Solomon and Fanuwatu areas did not enter the territory of the Republic of Indonesia. Sultan Zainal Abidin Syah (Sultan Tidore at the time) then handed over the territory of Irian Barat to the Republic of Indonesia and Tidore became the capital of the province at that time. And Sultan Zainal Abidin Syah was later appointed as the first Governor of Irian Jaya.
Sultan Hussain Syah also told about Sultan Nuku (1780 – 1805), Sultan Tidore XXX who holds Sri Paduka Maha Tuan Sultan Saidul Djehah Muhammad El Mabus Amiruddin Sjah Kaitjil Paparangan Jou Barakati. The figure of Sultan Nuku is what inflames the Tidore revolution to restore the dignity and glory of Tidore from the clutches of VOC-style political policy.
Sultan Nuku also managed to unite Tidore and Ternate as the two were divided by Dutch politics. With “allied” tactics with Britain, Sultan Nuku and his troops managed to drive Dutch troops out of the Tidore region. Despite the excuse of “allying,” Britain has nothing to gain, other than ordinary trade relations. Ingenuity, courage, resilience and alertness of Sultan Nuku make Tidore able to establish good relations with the Portuguese, Spanish, English, and even Dutch.
For 25 years, Sultan Nuku befriended the war to defend Tidore’s territory. In his war strategy, Sultan Nuku diplomated with the Dutch and British, organizing strategies and tactics and plunging into battle using the Kora-Kora boat. All that was done to free the people of Tidore from the grip of the invaders. Currently Sultan Nuku has been recognized as a national hero in the Republic of Indonesia.
Besides Sultan Nuku, Tidore also has a regional hero (but is not yet recognized as a national hero) named Imam Abdullah Kadir Abdussalam, also known as Tuan Guru. Tuan Guru has been given the title of hero in South Africa.
A brief flashback to Tidore’s history, the Tidore Sultanate was founded in 1081 under the leadership of Muhammad Naqil (Kohlano Syahjati) (http://sejarahlengkap.com/indonesia/kerajaan/sejarah-kerajaan-tidore). Kadato Kie was built during the reign of Sultan Tidore XXVIII, Muhammad Tahir Muijuddin (1810 – 1821) in 1812. Kadato Kie’s construction took 50 years. However, it was totally destroyed at the end of the reign of Sultan Syahjuan in 1912 due to Dutch’s politics.
Based on a book written by Prime Minister of Tidore Sultanate (Jojau) M. Amin Faaroek, mentioned that before ascending the throne, Muhammad Tahir was a designer and architect. He began to design Kadato Kie’s form and then worked with local clerics. He also sent envoys to the regions to deliver the news that the Tidore Sultanate would build a Kedaton Sultanate and a sultanate mosque in the capital of Tidore Sultanate, in Soa Sio, which was better and bigger than the previous one. The imperial mosque to be built is the third mosque built after the Sultan Mosque built in 1710 and the mosque in Toloa Gamlamo.
The hard work of Sultan Muhammad Tahir paid off. In a short time there were artisans coming from areas like Raja Ampat, Maba, Patani and Weda to build a Kedaton. The construction of this kedaton was led by the chief artisan of Soa Kipu Bela Toduho, known as Tidore architect, named Lang Kie Iko Sorabi.
The construction of this 50-year-old Kedaton resulted in a building shaped like a male scorpion, in Tidore called Hai Mole. After the death of Sultan Muhammad Tahir in 1821, the construction of Kedaton was continued by Sultan Ahmadul Mansyur Sirajuddin and Sultan Ahmad Syafiuddin.
In 1912 there was the destruction of Kedaton by Jojau Muhammad Alting (Nau Cenge) with the princes and their families. This destruction occurred because of panic Jojau Muhammad Alting, who heard the news that there was a man named Besi who was ambitious to become Sultan Tidore, replacing Sultan Syahjuan who died in 1905. It is said that Besi has a lot of supporters, ranging from Weda, Patani and Maba. Besi’s supporters centered in Gita is reportedly waiting for the right time to attack Tidore. Jojau Muhammad Alting’s panic increased with the arrival of a Tomalou who hit Sagu in Gita, the Tomalou man said that the mass of Besi supporters is quite a lot, complete with food and weaponry.
The news made Jojau Muhammad Alting then sent some princes and Bobato customs Gimalaha and Fomanyira to Ternate to report it to Konteler Ternate. The Ternate Konteler then sends aid to Tidore, then to the Gita to dispel Besi and its supporters. At the same time, at dawn the day Jojau Muhammad Alting and his extended family had flattened Kadato Kie, having previously evacuated all of Kadato Kie’s property out.
In the past, Ternate and Tidore competed in trade. The competition led to the formation of two trade partnerships, each of whom became its leader:
Uli-Lima (Five Brothers Union) led Ternate, covering Bacan, Seram, Obi, and Ambon. During the reign of Sultan Babullah, Ternate reached a golden point and had territory to the Philippines;
Uli-Siwa (Persekutuan Sembilan Bersaudara) is led by Tidore, covering Halmahera, Jailolo to Papua. And the Kingdom of Tidore is also one of the Islamic Kingdom in Indonesia apart from the Palembang Sultanate founded by Ki Gedeng Suro, the Kingdom of Bima in the eastern region of Sumbawa, and Siak Sri Indrapura founded by Sultan Abdul Jalil Rahmat Syah. At the beginning of the 15th century the religion of Islam entered the Kingdom of Tidore because of the 11th Tidore King Sultan Ciriliyati or often called Sultan Djamaluddin like da’wah of Arabic pedakwah namely Sheikh Mansur, and after that the religion of Islam was made official religion of Tidore Kingdom.
Time went on and we had to say goodbye to Sultan Hussain Syah. One sentence from Sultan Hussain Syah is very imprint on my head “In Tidore there is no buskers or beggars. If there is, it can be ascertained that they are not Tidore people. We still have a sense of shame”.
Before meeting Sultan Hussain Syah, my friends and I had a chance to see the room located on the floor below Kadato Kie. The large white-painted room with green dominated doors and windows served as a museum for the imperial collection. The collection kept in this room is only a small part, because most of the historical collection of the sultanate has been moved to the imperial museum which is located not far from there. The imperial collections I found were various photographs that tell the long history of Tidore. Several important historical high-value letters, as well as miniature Kora-Kora boats (traditional Tidore boats) that seem to tell how valiant the Tidore war troopers of his time.
In Kadato Kie’s living room, a pair of beautiful chairs are the throne of the empire. The very identical green color of Islam seems to dominate the room and the wall behind the throne. Flags and banners of the sultanate flank right and left the throne of the empire.
My visit to Tidore Sultanate that afternoon, and met directly with Sultan Tidore XXXVII, Sultan Hussain Syah was an unforgettable experience. This trip to Tidore is truly a special trip.
Membuka mata untuk melihat setiap sudut dunia, melangkahkan kaki ikut merasakan atmosfir yang berbeda, menjabat tangan sahabat-sahabat baru, bersyukur pernah melihat, merasakan, bertemu dan menjadi bagian dari luasnya dunia ini.